Textured Surfaces Steal the Spotlight

hair by Tisha Hall for Sam Villa
using the Sam Villa Textur™ iron

Hair takes its cue from fashion, and on the runway we’re seeing colliding textures and shapes—ruffled chiffon skirts topped by bulky sweaters or constructed jackets. That’s why big waves, bouncing curls and some of the classic textured shapes are making a comeback. I think it’s great, because so few clients can achieve the flat, poker-straight styles at home.

hair by Omar Sassin for Sam Villa
using the Sam Villa Textur™ iron

The classical looks showing up mix 1940s, ’60s, ’70s and ’80s. They remind me of Ava Gardner and Brigitte Bardot, and you give that a modern update by keeping the hair slightly messy and not too polished—an unfinished, no-statement, second-day, sexy look. Leave wispy strands around the face and let the hair just fall. Texture, rather than length, complements the volume and definition, and it’s leaning toward a triangular silhouette.

My question to you is: Do you have the essential tools of the trade to be able to capture the trend of today’s quirky textures? Thermal tools are the best way to achieve textured looks. First, keep in mind the three components of using thermal tools, including straightening and texturizing irons:

1. Heat to alter the hydrogen bonds in the hair.
2. Compression to remove wrinkles and add shine.
3. Tension to determine how stretched and straight the hair will be.

Today everyone wants choices. Clients don’t want to be limited to wearing their hair the same way all the time. So use your thermal tools in unconventional ways, and educate clients that today product is not an option but a necessity. Try these techniques:

• Cut a bob and show the client how to wear it curly. Explain what you’re doing: “Let’s put Redken Wool Shake in your hair to allow the texture to bounce back.”
• Use Redken Fabricate 03 heat-active texturizer to set the hair in hot rollers, which calm the hair and make it more pliable and easy to work with.
• To use a curling iron instead of rollers, spray each section with Redken Workforce 09, and then put in your iron to set the hair. The bigger the section you take, the larger the curl will be; the smaller the section, the smaller the curl. If the client’s hair doesn’t hold curl very well, take small sections.
• Build body and volume in fine hair by applying Redken Thickening Lotion 06 to damp hair, and then rough-dry and mist the hair with Wool Shake.
• Enhance naturally textured hair by layering two products. First, mist the hair with Wool Shake, and then work Rough Clay 20, a matte texturizer, through the hair.
• Create texture using the Sleekr™ by first spraying the hair with Redken Spray Starch 15 versatile ironing spray. Place the Sleekr™ at the root, twist it 180 degrees and then slowly pull through to the ends to create a ribbon curl. Flat irons are capable of so much more than simply straightening. A flick of the wrist in the right direction, and your client can have today’s editorial curls!
• Create texture and volume at the root using the Textur™ also by first spraying with Spray Starch 15. Then place the Textur™ at the root and compress, leaving an impression that will pop out from the scalp and give you the necessary volume. This works great when you’re creating support for fine hair. It’s a hidden secret underneath the hair; you don’t really see it.

Artificial Texture, a 2-DVD set is the first video in the Sam’s Studio Session series and features Redken Education Artistic Director Chris Baran! It’s important for us as hairdressers to know some tricks with thermal tools that clients can’t figure out how to do on their own. Getting adept at a lot of finishing techniques is the way we can stay one step ahead of the rest and enhance our career. We need to know how to add spin.

Be sure to check out my new Sleekr™ flat iron and Textur™ texturizing iron – also available through your distributor beginning in July!